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Having grown up on the California coast... and learned how to surf at San Onofre in slowcal near President Nixon's compound... when I was 9 years old. This flick touched a nerve.
I've basically surfed every quality break from K-38 just south of the Mexican border to Crescent City near the Oregon boarder.
This is the only break in California (San Francisco Bay Area, "Mavericks")... or anywhere else in the world I've surfed where... I said, "Oh, hell no" !!!
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Chasing Mavericks 2012 Full Movie
Grab a beer or twenty, locate your bong... and enjoy.
P.S. My first board was a hand me down from my uncle who lived in Mission Viejo and was the one that taught me how to surf... it was a 7 foot 6 Yater.