T1B

What's a basement, and what does it take to finish a slab-on-grade?

Sincerely yours,
California

If you're gonna finish that slab, get a permit and use plenty of square head fastners. Otherwise , it won't count as finished.

I must RACK! the Darkie, however belatedly.

Goober McTuber wrote:I have a good friend who lives about a half hour away who knows twice as much as Dinsdale about all the construction trades.

No doubt that Dins has a good friend that knows twice as much as your friend.

And he only lives 15 minutes away.

Bitch!

Dinsdale wrote:

Atomic Punk wrote:Behr stain

Junk.

Well... this thread stayed on topic didn't it?

The pickets are kind of gray so the idea of a solid color stain is what I was thinking of doing. Spending a lot of money on Behr may not be the way to go since the wood is old.

The "yard" is 13' x 12' minus the 5' x 12' slab. I was thinking about etching the slab prior to painting with a base with the tint I want. I'm pretty sure you know what a "base" is and what "tinting" the base means. The whole thing is to be able to tint to the color to what I want to see.

The concrete slab prolly needs to be etched prior to putting down the paint. With the dimensions I've given, I'm thinking roller for the slab and brush for the fence. Of course, I may be wrong.

slab

Are you trying to lure IRIE off the Capitol Steps?

As a general rule, you only have to etch/profile brand-new, freshly-cured concrete. If it's old, it's not neccessary. Whap it with a pressure washer, let it dry, and away you go.


Tinted/stained concrete is becomeing something of a rage/fad thing.


Solid color stains are generally heavy-bodied, and a bigass brush is probably the best bet. Go heavy, since recoating isn't recommended. Double-coating a solid-color, while providing better durability, usually results in a glossy finish, which looks gax on a fence.

Atomic Punk wrote:what I want to see.

[marq=down][align=right]~snicker~[/align][/marq]

ucantdoitdoggieSTyle2 wrote:

Atomic Punk wrote:what I want to see.

[marq=down][align=right]~snicker~[/align][/marq]

At least fucking try! Damn, the softballs tossed to the dolts is getting boring up in this bitch. You think I try not to set you clowns up fer a funnay comeback? Try damnit!


///////////////


Dins, good info on the etching and not needing to. There is concrete paint which I think is made for garages that has a lot of epoxy. Then there is a type of exterior paint for driveways and sidewalks. I'm thinking about going with the cheaper product and getting the color I want as tinting the stuff is pretty easy.

AP,

For God’s sake, DON’T FORGET THE PERMIT!

Atomic Punk wrote:There is concrete paint which I think is made for garages that has a lot of epoxy.

No...it's either epoxy, or it isn't. One or the other.


And those DIY epoxy kits aren't usually much in the way of quality, compared to "real" epoxies, anyway.

For an exterior application, you definitely don't want the epoxy. As a general rule, true epoxies have little in the way of gloss and color retention ina UV-exposure application.

Then there is a type of exterior paint for driveways and sidewalks. I'm thinking about going with the cheaper product and getting the color I want as tinting the stuff is pretty easy.

Generally going to be a cheap single-component urethane, which is just fine. And a paint store can probably tint it to the exact color you want, or pretty close.


I'd check with Goob's buddy first, though, since I don't know shit about industrial coatings.

Goober McTuber wrote:AP,

For God’s sake, DON’T FORGET THE PERMIT!

If'n I'm not mistaken, you actually are supposed to have a permit to stain your fence in San Francisco...talk about your gax construction laws.

Dinsdale wrote: And those DIY epoxy kits aren't usually much in the way of quality, compared to "real" epoxies, anyway.

For an exterior application, you definitely don't want the epoxy. As a general rule, true epoxies have little in the way of gloss and color retention ina UV-exposure application.

Is the reason for avoiding epoxy outside to not have problems with the cement breathing or whatever it is that lets it bleed up through the surface?? What I mean is if you have moisture and it has to go somewhere.

I've seen the Rustoleum product with the catchy sprinkles and it peels and flakes. You can pressure was just fine, but that stuff doesn't seem to be durable.

Atomic Punk wrote:Is the reason for avoiding epoxy outside to not have problems with the cement breathing or whatever it is that lets it bleed up through the surface?? What I mean is if you have moisture and it has to go somewhere.

Well first off, it's like I explained -- epoxies aren't made for UV exposure applications. Direct sunlight, or even reflected UV over the longterm, causes an epoxy's color to fade, and the surface becomes chalky. Generally doesn't æffect the integrity of the coating, but the cosmetics take a big hit.

As far as moisture -- the coating seals thew concrete...duh. Obviously, it shouldn't be applied when the concrete has a high moisture content. And since you don't have a moisture meter(which is a bitch to use on concrete anyway), just let it dry for one CenCal burning hot day, and the moisture content will be right about 0%. On paper, once coated, it will never absorb any more moisture.


As far as the "sprinkles" -- anti-skid coatings definitely need to be applied right. If you want to go that route, broadcast the crushed-up walnut shell stuff evenly across the first coat while still tacky(a hand-held fertilizer spreader works well in a pinch, as does your hand). The a heavy second will keep the sprinklies in place. A third never hurts, if you have the time and materials and patience.


Let me know when you have something complicated, like coating the inside of a water tower or something.

Dinsdale wrote:Let me know when you have something complicated, like coating the inside of a water tower or something.

Or call us when you have something simple, like spackling the inside of your partner’s lower sigmoid.

Sincerely,

A bit of a reach, but I believe a SissyCrown.jpg reset still gets the autoRACK.