Let's talk about tools - powered vs. cordless Vol (1)

Y2K · Post by **Y2K** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 7:40 pm

There's a few Dins...it's just the way it goes. Anytime your up 6 decks of scaffold and smoke the clutch outta 2 new Dewalts only to go down again haul up a 12 year old Milwaukee Impact drill and drill the wall watching the sparks shoot from the brushes in that ole bastard you tend to get a "tude" but that 's just my dealio..... Maybe the Dewalts are fine but obviously 8 inch grouted masonry isn't a design forte... :P

Rack everything you said... very true.

Goober McTuber · Post by **Goober McTuber** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 7:50 pm

Dinsdale wrote:Regardless, the name Rigid shouldn't appear anywhere in this thread.

What if you’re jacking off with a belt sander?

Cuda · Post by **Cuda** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 7:58 pm

Dinsdale wrote:
Regardless, the name Rigid shouldn't appear anywhere in this thread.

What if you're jacking off with a pipe threader?

atomicdad · Post by **atomicdad** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 8:01 pm

Neither, I would recomend the 1/3 hp Craftsman Car Buffer with the fleece mitt.

chowd103 · Post by **chowd103** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 8:36 pm

Dinsdale wrote: About all you need to know about deck screws. If you're using phillips, you need to stop, because you don't know what you're doing.

What???

Just got done w/ a 10'x10' just outsite the pool. Used phillips head/deck screw for each deck board. Should I rip 'em out?

Seriously-Just finished yesterday.

They're staying, Dins. But WTF should be used in this application?

BTW, got a DeWalt 18V drill that is actually lighter that my old 9.6V.
Thing kicks much ass. Got a DeWalt elec sawzall. Nice. I imagine the cordless is sweet. Delta, btw is a grey color. Got a compressor and chop saw. Both are Lowes specials. Inexpensive and very dependable.

FloatiingHobo · Post by **FloatiingHobo** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 8:58 pm

Atomic Punk wrote:Yes Ridgid is Home Depot as is Ryobi/Workforce. I think there are divisions in the the Ching Chang China Club (Rick James - RIP) that produce all of those lines.

Husky makes good equipment but they are pretty expensive. Now, Husky's air compressors are pretty damn good for the price. I won't buy their accessory tools as they are too expensive. I'll go to Sears and get Craftsman sockets, etc..

Husky and Craftsman hand tools (Sockets, ratchets, wrenches, pliers, screwdrivers etc.) are the same. Both are made by Calorado Forge. Or atleast they both were back when I worked at Sears in the mid 90's.

Not sure about Husky compressors, but Craftsman compressors and air tools used to be made by Ingersol Rand.

Craftsman power tools are made by an assortment of vendors including DeWalt & Ryobi. If it says Craftsman Professional it's DeWalt, if it just syas Craftsman, it's probably Ryobi.

DeWalt is the professional division of B&D.

Goober McTuber · Post by **Goober McTuber** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 9:00 pm

chowd103 wrote:
Dinsdale wrote: About all you need to know about deck screws. If you're using phillips, you need to stop, because you don't know what you're doing.
What???

Just got done w/ a 10'x10' just outsite the pool. Used phillips head/deck screw for each deck board. Should I rip 'em out?

Seriously-Just finished yesterday.

They're staying, Dins. But WTF should be used in this application?

I put in a decent sized deck 3 years ago, also used the Phillips heads. I know the square head screws are less prone to stripping, and the bits probably don’t wear out as fast, but I never found that to be an issue.

FloatiingHobo · Post by **FloatiingHobo** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 9:19 pm

atomicdad wrote:Uhhh Tools Good.

12" Compound Miter Saw, can't think of the manufacturer, green.
l

Sounds like a Hitachi.

FloatiingHobo · Post by **FloatiingHobo** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 9:22 pm

Uncle Fester wrote:In the old days, Sears used to replace Craftsmen tools for free.

My Dad blowtorched and then sanded about 12 coats of paint off our house. He also flipped houses and did most of the work himself. He went through at least three or four Craftsmen sanders in the process and Sears always gave him a new one free of charge, although it seems like they started to balk after a while.

Has Sears stopped their policy of replacing Craftsmen tools?

Sears will replace any Craftsman hand tool that breaks EVER. You cannot expect power tools to have a lifetime warranty, however. That's like expecting manufacturer to replace your car or TV if it breaks.

Atomic Punk · Post by **Atomic Punk** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 8:44 am

FloatiingHobo wrote: Husky and Craftsman hand tools (Sockets, ratchets, wrenches, pliers, screwdrivers etc.) are the same. Both are made by Calorado Forge. Or atleast they both were back when I worked at Sears in the mid 90's.

Not sure about Husky compressors, but Craftsman compressors and air tools used to be made by Ingersol Rand.

Craftsman power tools are made by an assortment of vendors including DeWalt & Ryobi. If it says Craftsman Professional it's DeWalt, if it just syas Craftsman, it's probably Ryobi.

DeWalt is the professional division of B&D.

That's interesting. I knew Dewalt had some type of deal with B&D. I have a nice 16.8V Craftsman cordless drill that I have no complaints. I have a $10 18V 3/8 Drill w/hammer made by "Workforce." Workforce is really made by Ryobi. They had a sale during Christmas and those 18V drills were gone quickly. I was lucky to get one.

Back to the point of this thread. I'm sure no homeowner is going to be working on a construction type setting at HOME Dinstale. I agree cordless is cool for construction for the previously drool-filled responses as you claimed to be at "work" yet are on the computer all fucking day.

Why would I need cordless tools at home? Seriously. They are cool to have but why not have corded tools at home where you don't have to replace batteries for the 2 times a year you need a drill? Don't bring back your weak-assed shit about power cords over 400 feet when working on your own fucking shithole. Years ago I bought the thickest gauge extension cord I could find and it can handle the amps required off of one fucking tool. I can go anywhere at the house I need and run just fine you self-propping idiot.

I'll bet you use coated sinkers in treated wood also.

Goober McTuber · Post by **Goober McTuber** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 1:05 pm

Atomic Punk wrote:Back to the point of this thread. I'm sure no homeowner is going to be working on a construction type setting at HOME Dinstale. I agree cordless is cool for construction for the previously drool-filled responses as you claimed to be at "work" yet are on the computer all fucking day.

Why would I need cordless tools at home? Seriously. They are cool to have but why not have corded tools at home where you don't have to replace batteries for the 2 times a year you need a drill? Don't bring back your weak-assed shit about power cords over 400 feet when working on your own fucking shithole. Years ago I bought the thickest gauge extension cord I could find and it can handle the amps required off of one fucking tool. I can go anywhere at the house I need and run just fine you self-propping idiot.

I'll bet you use coated sinkers in treated wood also.

When I finished my basement, I hung somewhere around 80 sheets of drywall. Probably a couple dozen screws in each sheet. I can’t imagine doing all of that with a corded drill.

Atomic Punk · Post by **Atomic Punk** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 1:44 pm

Before Dinsconstructionpro wakes up from his drunken stupor and tells you nonsense about using coarse versus fine drywall screws and that you need a bucket of bits, etc... How big is your basement to hang 80 sheets of drywall?????

Even still, were you changing out batteries every 20 minutes? WOW!

FloatiingHobo · Post by **FloatiingHobo** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 2:06 pm

Goober McTuber wrote:

When I finished my basement, I hung somewhere around 80 sheets of drywall. Probably a couple dozen screws in each sheet. I can’t imagine doing all of that with a corded drill.

You hung 80 sheets of drywall with a cordless drill? are you mad!?! You would have definately done well to rent, or even buy a self feeding drywall gun. Like this one.

Goober McTuber · Post by **Goober McTuber** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 2:28 pm

The basement is basically one large room, 52 feet long. Roughly 1100 square feet, that’s 35 sheets just to do the ceiling. I finished it by working 2 or 3 hours each night. Not practical to rent any tools, as I wasn’t interested in busting my ass to put up all the sheetrock in a day or two. I had a friend come in to help me do the ceiling, and then my wife and I did the walls.

Atomic Punk · Post by **Atomic Punk** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 2:32 pm

That's why God created Mexican laborers. Use them even though they'll steal everything out of your shed.

FloatiingHobo · Post by **FloatiingHobo** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 4:01 pm

Goober McTuber wrote:Not practical to rent any tools, as I wasn’t interested in busting my ass to put up all the sheetrock in a day or two. I had a friend come in to help me do the ceiling, and then my wife and I did the walls.

I hope you at least rented a drywall lift when you did the ceiling. I have done it both ways and there is no way I will EVER drywall a ceiling without a lift again.

Goober McTuber · Post by **Goober McTuber** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 4:26 pm

My buddy is self-employed doing all kinds of remodeling and custom carpentry. Very talented. Also in decent shape. He constructed a pair of T’s out of two-by-fours, just slightly longer that the height of the ceiling. He picked up each sheet, and held it roughly in place while I jammed the T’s under each end. Then we’d tap the sheet into precise position and screw it in.

It was his idea to pass on the lift. I’ve helped another friend do his ceiling using a lift, and this guy’s way was probably a bit faster.

Dinsdale · Post by **Dinsdale** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 4:28 pm

chowd103 wrote:They're staying, Dins. But WTF should be used in this application?

Yeah, obviously, they're staying.

The correct screws for a deck are square-drive heads. Oddly enough, the square-drives are also sometimes referred to as "deck drives." They were sitting on the store shelf right next to the phillips you bought.

If you didn't mangle any phillips heads building a deck, then either RACK you for getting over on your wife, since you OBVIOUSLY weren't working very hard. Or, unRACK you for building a deck out of some seriously shitty wood...one or the other.

Sheesh...the 80's called, and they want their shitty deck screws back. Fuck, why didn't you stoke up a coal fire and break out your anvil, and blacksmith your own freaking screws, which you'd deliver to the jobsite via horse-and-buggy?

What is wrong with you people?

Dinsdale · Post by **Dinsdale** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 4:32 pm

Goober McTuber wrote:He constructed a pair of T’s out of two-by-fours, just slightly longer that the height of the ceiling. He picked up each sheet, and held it roughly in place while I jammed the T’s under each end. Then we’d tap the sheet into precise position and screw it in.

I'm not a drywaller, but unfortunately I've done a bunch of it.

Your technique works great, probably as well as a lift, assuming you're not a weakling/tard.

Last time I drywalled a ceiling was at the homestead, and we just recruited an idiot buddy who weighs about 260, and filled him with beer. That "rental lift" worked pretty well, except it cracked a couple of sheets that we had to fix later...oh well.

And drywall screw guns are THE SHIT for hanging drywall......funny how that works.

Dinsdale · Post by **Dinsdale** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 4:45 pm

Drywall is a low-torque screwing application. Phillips is fine.

And if you can't dig a joke out of THAT^^^, your name might be AP or Diogenes.

velocet · Post by **velocet** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 6:53 pm

Things I learned during my 3 week stint helping a friend of a friend, he of the carpentry trade:

- everything the guy told me was probably bullshit, or just plain wrong. I didn't care enuff to ascertain his liar/idiot ratio properly.

- he had corded and battery drills. They were blue.

- he said to be the best carpenter one has to be the best finisher, by that he meant making the places where the boards meet invisible with "mud" and tape. He bragged of his special patented technique of mud first, then tape, feather, mud again, feather. He said he was so good at that that there was no need to sand anything. He said his work was always ready for the painters as soon as the mud dries.

- that on the jobsite there is a hierarchy of the trades. This is because if the most important trades don't do their work, other, lower trades can't get in to do theirs. Something like that. He said the masonry people are the most important because you cant have a house without a foundation. Next is the carpenters because they have to put up all the studs and drywall and they know where everything is supposed to be in the house, so they direct the lower trades like plumbers and electricians as to where to put things like toilets and electrical outlets. The electricians have to have their hands held throughout the whole jobsite because they don't know how to read plans. But he plumbers are worse and you have to watch them becaue they'll fukk up the drywall every chance they get. They don't care when they drag toilets and sinks around because they bang into his finished walls and it pisses him off. The High-Vac fellas are next lowest. He said he got into the most fistfights with the high-vac dudes because they fukk up his work the most and listen the least. He said they sneak on to the site because they always fukk up where to put the airconditioning vents and don't want to hear about it. He mentioned that they are the trade that has the record for most assholes falling through the ceilings (HIS ceilings) whenever they are installing the ducts in the attic. He said they are too stupid to walk on the... I forget the term, but he says they always walk on the drywall in the attic and fall through a lot. But the high vac people aren't the lowest, the next lowest are the tilers and carpet dudes because anyone can install carpet or tile, plus they drink on the job. That leaves the very lowest, which are the painters, who do meth. The siding and gutter people, pavers, landscapers, and roofers don't bother him because they don't go inside, but that also means they don't even rate as trades, they're just lowdown n's.

- The proper way to put up board on a ceiling is "screw and glue". He said fly by night fukkers don't glue and use nails, which cause "nail pops".

- That metal studs rule. He said always try to sell 'em on metal studs. They're straighter than wood, lighter, and you can charge more extra for them.

- Never let the builder get materials. You can overcharge more that way for everything, including stuff for the next job. He said the best form of this is getting the builder to go with "firewall" throughout the project. You can overcharge on that the most because its the safest. Then you go ahead and get regular board anyway.

- Scaffolding is for faggots. Use stilts early and often. But you have to sweep the floor first or else you can trip over something and fall.

-Never work for a builder who hasn't got all the county inspectors on the payroll. That way you can avoid fees and fines, plus you can keep your work under the government radar and then don't have to pay taxes. He said if the government isn't inspecting, they don't know you're there, so they can't tax you. Plus, if anything goes wrong, there isn't a paper trail to make you liable for any collapses of houses and resulting death and lawsuits. He said everyone works this way.

Is this what you are familiar with, Dins?

velocet

Cuda · Post by **Cuda** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 7:08 pm

Goober McTuber wrote:When I finished my basement, I hung somewhere around 80 sheets of drywall. Probably a couple dozen screws in each sheet. I can’t imagine doing all of that with a corded drill.

Obviously you can't imagine doing that with a building permit either.

I hope you didn't sheetrock the ceiling that way

Not really... I hope you did sheetrock the ceiling that way.

Bizzarofelice · Post by **Bizzarofelice** » Tue Mar 28, 2006 7:27 pm

Things I learned during my stint helping a friend, he of the carpentry trade:

-rub up on her from the backside. if she pretends to be asleep just finish, if she wakes up flip her over.

-i was told i look like a young lee greenwood

-biggie is samrt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

-tree ain't gonna climb itself

-im able to pay my mortgages, feed the pigs, and drink lots of cheap beer

-my stepdad is black, i am kinda white. what the fuck is your problem with this??

-peeing outside = freedom

-biggie is stupid

-if you wanna hang, I'll hang

It was a good job. You can see the paneling we put in here:

chowd103 · Post by **chowd103** » Wed Mar 29, 2006 1:32 am

Dinsdale wrote:

chowd103 wrote:They're staying, Dins. But WTF should be used in this application?
Yeah, obviously, they're staying.

The correct screws for a deck are square-drive heads. Oddly enough, the square-drives are also sometimes referred to as "deck drives." They were sitting on the store shelf right next to the phillips you bought.

I had those left over from a previous job. They worked fine.

Dinsdale wrote: If you didn't mangle any phillips heads building a deck, then either RACK you for getting over on your wife, since you OBVIOUSLY weren't working very hard. Or, unRACK you for building a deck out of some seriously shitty wood...one or the other.

I'm using an 18V cordless DeWalt. It would prolly spin you into elbow surgery.

Not a single screw was killed during the making of this deck. I could back off every one of these inferior screws if I had to.

Dinsdale wrote: Sheesh...the 80's called, and they want their shitty deck screws back. Fuck, why didn't you stoke up a coal fire and break out your anvil, and blacksmith your own freaking screws, which you'd deliver to the jobsite via horse-and-buggy?

I laughed.

I'm thinking of building a pressure treated walkway leading to the gate.
(same deck boards I used for the deck)

If I decide to do this I'll try those faggy-ass square-headed deck screws you're so much in love with. If they work any better, I'll send you a $25.00 gift certificate from Lowes. If they work as well, you do the same.

Deal?

Dinsdale · Post by **Dinsdale** » Wed Mar 29, 2006 5:49 pm

I'm laughing with Cuda, although I doubt Goobs understands why. Pretty safe to assume no building inspector came anywhere near that job, which is too bad and shortsighted. Pull the permits and do the job correctly, and you actually get paid for it when the day comes that you sell your house. Pull the American-DIY-Hero routine with the stupid "I don't need permits to finish my basement," and you just did all that work for free. Hmmm....get paid a few grand down the road(potentially), or get paid zero and find yourself in a big hassle when it comes time to sell your house...hmmmmm....tough call there.

Let me guess -- 1/2" drywall on 24" centers on that ceiling? SOP for DIYers everywhere. Quite wrong and stupid, but very common. Then again, I suppose building codes aren't as tight in places not subject to earthquakes. That shit definitely don't fly around here, though, and I know it doesn't in Cali, either.

Chowd, you just don't seem to be catching on here. I wasn't stating my opinion. I wasn't bringing the subject up for debate. I was simply stating FACT. If your "opinion" differs from this, you should probably keep it to yourself, since it serves as a pretty poor reflection on your building skeelz...just sayin'.

Goober McTuber · Post by **Goober McTuber** » Wed Mar 29, 2006 6:49 pm

16” on center, and nobody gets building permits here for interior work. And I know a number of people in the real estate business here. I’ll ask them if they’ve ever had a buyer request to see building permits for finished basements.

Sincerely,

Well, no, I probably won’t bother.

Cuda · Post by **Cuda** » Wed Mar 29, 2006 6:53 pm

16" centers won't stop me from laughing when that sheetrock comes crashing down on your head.

Goober McTuber · Post by **Goober McTuber** » Wed Mar 29, 2006 7:07 pm

Don’t hold your breath. It didn’t happen in 15 years in my last house.

Dinsdale · Post by **Dinsdale** » Wed Mar 29, 2006 7:11 pm

Goober McTuber wrote:And I know a number of people in the real estate business here. I’ll ask them if they’ve ever had a buyer request to see building permits for finished basements.

Then the laws must be RADICALLY different where you live. Watched a real estate deal go down in flames right before my very eyes, for EXACTLY that reason. They negotiated out of it, to the tune of over $15,000....real fucking intelligent decision to go the "nobody get permits for basements" route.

Maybe it's different where you live, but I'll explain how it works here -- believe it or not...and I know this is a difficult concept...but around here, they don't just let homeowners arbitrarily decide how many square feet their house is on their own whim.

I know, I know...those crazy fucking Northwesterners...

But really, around here, you don't just get to call up the country assessor's office and say "I just wanted to call to tell you that I've decided my house is now 2500 square feet, instead of the old 1400."

And if it DOES work that way where you live, then props on moving to the Retard Capital Of The Universe, and getting over on their retarded asses.

See, where I live, it ain't living space unless the deed says it's living space. You don't get to hold your own double-secret county meeting to decide that on your own. And 'round these parts, unless the work is permitted and inspected, take a big guess what....

It doesn't show on the deed as living space, and the square-foot price of the transaction will be based upon the legal-listed square footage.

And fucking believe it or not, when a person tries to purchase a house, unless they're paying cash (got $300,000 lying around?), they're financing it.

Now, for the $300,000 Dollar Questiion Goobs -- would you care to name a finance company that's going to give you an unsecured loan for $150,000 - $1,000,000(or whatever) for double the value of the home?

If your answer is "yes," then props once again for getting over on the most retarded of the retards.

But where I live, if you think you're going to buy a 2500 square foot house at a 2500 square foot price that the assessor/appraiser says has a CMA of that of a 1400SF house...because that's what it IS, and always will be without tearing down all of the shit work)...well, we have a phrase we use 'round these parts for situations like that --

we use the phrase "Are you fucking smoking crack?"

Your knowledge of the real estate/finance biz is about as solid of AP's knowledge of the trades.

If your finish job on your basement works for you, then more power to you...really. But if you think that doing it unpermitted was a good idea because "everybody does it," then you're a fucking idiot. Assuming you sell the house before you push daisies, it WILL cost you money. Period. Non-negotiable. Unless you live in one SERIOUS backwoods part of the country that lets homeowners decide how many square feet the house is.

Here's the mathmatical breakdown --

1400SF of living space

+

1100SF of unpermitted "finished" basement

=

__________________________
A 1400SF house with a fancy unfinished basement.

Like I say...unless you have some SERIOUSLY fucked up laws where you live.

ONCE AGAIN...I don't care. I sincerely hope you enjoy your basement...really. But if you somehow think it's "just as good," or "no big deal," then you are truly a clueless idiot. But, don't feel bad about it -- in my world, I've watched a whole buncha Goobers make that exact same mistake. And they paid for it...dearly. I see it all the time. Dumb, dumb, dumb.

Goober McTuber · Post by **Goober McTuber** » Wed Mar 29, 2006 7:51 pm

You certainly get yourself all worked up over this shit, don’t you? First of all, basement area doesn’t appraise anywhere near the upstairs. Considering that I don’t have a second exit, and therefore couldn’t put bedrooms down there, it appraises at roughly 25-30% of what the upstairs appraises.

And yes, despite all of your sputtering, I will make money on that basement. In today’s numbers, at least $30,000. I’ve done it before. Have you?

Cuda · Post by **Cuda** » Wed Mar 29, 2006 8:13 pm

Let us know if they have cameras there for your perp-walk, won't you, goober?

Goober McTuber · Post by **Goober McTuber** » Wed Mar 29, 2006 8:16 pm

You’d do anything to have a picture of me, wouldn’t you, Cooter? Sick bastard.

Dinsdale · Post by **Dinsdale** » Wed Mar 29, 2006 8:42 pm

Goober McTuber wrote:In today’s numbers, at least $30,000. I’ve done it before. Have you?

KILLING me over here.

No, dude -- I'm just making this shit up as I go along. It's not like I'm going to forget more about this stuff in the next 5 minutes than you'll ever know or anything. Every once in a blue moon, I wish some of my friends posted here, so they could share in the laughter posts like yours bring.

And in "today's numbers"...or tomorrows...or the next day's...your "improvement" is worth about $27/SF. If this is 25-30% of the value of properly built living space, that works out to houses in your area being woth about $100/SF.

In that case, I'll back off. You live in a worthless shithole, and property values are low enough that butchering the place is no big deal, I guess.

Then again, let's look at the numbers YOU provided -- you claim this 1100SF addition is worth ~$30,000 to you. You also claim that this is 25-30% of what real property is worth.

So, by your own math, your value increase for the basement was $30,000, BUT if it was "real" living space, those numbers extrapolate to $100,000+.

Creating egress would have cost a couplefew hundred bucks.

So, you're sitting here telling us that you VOLUNTARILY passed on $70,000+...because you were too lazy to pull permits.

You GO, boyee!

Talk about the fucking bullshit detector getting pegged out to the point the needle bends...

Sorry, bud -- if you had $70,000 (and remember, those are YOUR numbers) to flush down the toilet, you wouldn't be living in a neighborhood where houses go for $100/SF or less.

Tell us another lie, Goobs.

And YOU'RE questioning MY knowledge of the subject? Tears, Jerry. Tears.

Uncle Fester · Post by **Uncle Fester** » Wed Mar 29, 2006 8:54 pm

Maybe it's different where you live, but I'll explain how it works here -- believe it or not...and I know this is a difficult concept...but around here, they don't just let homeowners arbitrarily decide how many square feet their house is on their own whim.

Why not? Do they hold your dick for you out in Cali whenever you hang a picture on the fukking wall?

My uncle lived out in the country and when he wanted a new room, he knocked down the fooken wall and built one. Those were the days when you didn't need a phonebook-sized stack of permits and written permission from Congress in order to work on your own house.

He put in a backyard pool, enclosed patio, fireplaces, new additions, and even raised the fukken roof basically by himself. His house was eccentric, unique, and cool as hell and he sold it for a small fortune when he retired from the post office.

Unwar the nanny-state, bureaucracy-choked mess that is the modern housing/real esate business.

Goober McTuber · Post by **Goober McTuber** » Wed Mar 29, 2006 8:54 pm

Dinsdale,

Are you really that fucking stupid? It costs around $100/sq ft to build a house around here. It might cost $25 or $30/sq ft. to get the basement finished, especially since it’s just one big room. No interior walls. You figure out yet where your math went wrong yet, mensa?

Dinsdale · Post by **Dinsdale** » Wed Mar 29, 2006 9:04 pm

Goober McTuber wrote:You figure out yet where your math went wrong yet, mensa?

Please stop...I'm begging you.

The reason being, I haven't rescued any babies from any burning buildings lately, so I don't believe I deserve to laugh anywhere near this hard.

Keep selling your bullshit, Mr. "I Didn't Need That $70K Anyway."

But NO...it gets even better...

Goobs, Real Estate Tycoon Extraordinaire, is now telling us he spent over $25,000 hanging some drywall in his basement. No extra walls. No egress. Just $25,000 on fucking sheetrock for 1100SF....doiung the labor himself, of course...gotta save where you can, right? Of course, I'd recommend that next time you don't use the gold-plated drywall.

This gets funnier by the minute.

Shit, I would have come and drywalled your basement for half that.

Goober McTuber · Post by **Goober McTuber** » Wed Mar 29, 2006 9:09 pm

OK, you really ARE this fucking stupid. I never said I spent $25,000 on the basement. I said that’s roughly what it would cost to have it done. Hence, that would be roughly what it’s worth. And trust me, I wouldn’t have hired anyone as stupid as you at any price.

Dinsdale · Post by **Dinsdale** » Wed Mar 29, 2006 9:29 pm

Goober McTuber wrote:I said that’s roughly what it would cost to have it done. Hence, that would be roughly what it’s worth.

Oh, good fucking god...

Sin,
Dude who lives in an area where construction costs are less than house value/SF

Oh, wait...

Every single person on this fucking board lives in an area of the country where SF values are greater than the cost to build them from the ground up.

There's another name for this strange concept, Goober -- it's called "the construction industry." It's kind of a supply/demand economics thing.

Wow. You're a fucking idiot. Who is now backing away from the numbers where he says he cost himself $70,000, but boy, he sure saved on permits.

You're so fucking ignorant here, I can't even explain why you're ignorant.

One more try -- would you care to explain to me how SF values in your hood are ~$100/SF (remember, those are YOUR numbers), yet you decidede it was in your better interest financially to make sure that $100/SF number dropped to $27/SF(also YOUR numbers)?

Go ahead -- do tell, Goober. To people stuck with this damn "new math," you areethmuhtiks sounds kind of fucked up.

You say it didn't cost you anywhere near $25/SF to "finish" your basement, and by YOUR NUMBERS, proper living space is worth around $100/SF, but it wasn't worth $25/SF to make the area worth $100/SF...times 1100?

You're not a bookeeper for Enron by any chance, are you?

Goober McTuber · Post by **Goober McTuber** » Wed Mar 29, 2006 9:44 pm

You are exceptionally thick. I’ll try one more time to explain this.

The house is a 1400 sq ft. ranch, so let’s say it cost $140,000 to build.

The finished area of the basement is 1100 sq ft. Whether I finish it, or pay someone to finish it, that area will be worth about $25,000. No bedrooms, it’s just a play area, and that’s about what it’s worth, according to an appraiser.

Outside of coating the walls with gold and stocking the bar with mass quantities of blended wine, there’s just no way to make a one-room 1100 sq ft basement worth $110,000. At least not around here.

If I sold the house right now, it would bring at least $165,000 (plus the value of the lot, plus appreciation). So I never cost myself $70,000 and wow, you're a fucking idiot.

Cuda · Post by **Cuda** » Wed Mar 29, 2006 9:52 pm

Goober McTuber wrote: Whether I finish it, or pay someone to finish it, that area will be worth about $25,000. No bedrooms, it’s just a play area, and that’s about what it’s worth, according to an appraiser. .

Not if you didn't pull a building permit it isn't.